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A moving feast: Recipes from Iraq, Syria, New Mexico
Three new books explore food through the eyes of refugees and those trapped amid conflict. Here are recipes from some of the communities they feature.
From Iraq: Shorbat adas or Lentil soup
This soup is light yet hearty, and because of that, it’s often used to break the fast at Ramadan. Red lentils are split, similar to green split peas, so they cook down and form a creamy consistency on their own — no blender needed.
Serves 8
INGREDIENTS
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 yellow onion, finely chopped
2 cups red lentils, rinsed
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
2 teaspoons ground cumin
1 tsp mild curry powder
½ tsp ground turmeric
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
8 cups water
1½ cups dried vermicelli noodles, broken up into short pieces
Fresh parsley leaves for garnish
Lemon wedges for serving
METHOD
In a large Dutch oven, heat the oil over medium heat. When the oil is hot, add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until tender, 7 to 8 minutes. Add the lentils and toss to coat in the oil. Add the garlic, cumin, curry powder, and turmeric and stir to coat the lentils in the spices.
Season with 2 teaspoons salt and several grinds of pepper. Pour in the water and bring the mixture to a simmer. Cover with the lid ajar and cook until the lentils are tender and falling apart, about 20 minutes.
Stir in the noodles and simmer just until tender, about 2 minutes. Taste and adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper if needed.
Ladle into individual bowls and top each serving with a sprinkle of parsley. Serve immediately with lemon wedges on the side for squeezing over the top.
(Excerpted with permission from Setting a Place for Us by Hawa Hassan, published by Penguin Random House; 2025)
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From Damascus, Syria: Esh al-bulbol or Nightingale nests, contributed by Umm Odai
Esh al-Bulbol (nightingale nests) is knafeh pastry shredded and shaped into small nests, baked with green pistachios, and then doused in syrup. Kids love making and eating these confections; adults enjoy esh al-bulbol with coffee. Great with qishta, ice cream, or Nutella too.
My Brother Loved Esh al-Bulbol
Esh al-Bulbol has special sad memories. When I lived with my family in Syria, my younger brother Ahmad loved baqlawah, and esh al-bulbol especially. I made it almost every day and we’d eat it sitting around the heater, laughing.
In 2013 I was forced to leave and come here, my brother eating esh al-bulbol imprinted on my mind. I dared not make it. How could I if my brother was not with me?
In 2015 my brother died in the war. I felt choked, unable to see him, say goodbye. Sorrow withered me deep inside. After mourning for ten days, I woke early without knowing or feeling what I was doing. It was raining. I started making esh al-bulbol and made 20 kg.
I distributed it by hand to my neighbours and others I knew in the camp. I asked them to pray for my brother, for Allah’s mercy, and for my parents’ understanding. I felt like I walked and visited every house and street that day; my eyes did not stop crying. Every anniversary of his death I make esh al-bulbol and tell my parents Ahmad is happy in heaven, Alhamdulillah. May Allah bless us and gather us with him.
INGREDIENTS
For the syrup
1 cup (200 g) sugar
1 cup (250 ml) water
1 tsp rosewater or orange blossom water
1 tsp lemon juice
For the pastry
1 lb (500 g) knafeh threads
1 cup (200 g) pistachios
1 cup (250 ml) saman (ghee) or butter, melted
Prepare syrup by boiling the sugar and water, then let simmer for a few minutes. Remove from heat and add the flavourings. Cool to room temperature.
Brush a baking sheet with saman (ghee).
METHOD
Cut the knafeh threads into 8-inch (20-cm) lengths. Wrap a thread around your finger to form a bird’s nest and press gently onto the baking sheet. Place 2 or 3 pistachios inside. Repeat with the remaining dough and pistachios. Pour saman into each nest, filling it halfway. Let rest at room temperature for 30 minutes.
Bake at 350°F (175°C) for 25 minutes or until golden. Transfer to a plate and pour cold syrup over the nests.
(Excerpted with permission from Zaatari copyright © 2024 by Karen E. Fisher, published by Goose Lane Editions. For more information, please visit www.gooselane.com.)
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From the Pueblo Nations, New Mexico, USA: Ray’s po’pay bisque
Makes 4 to 6 servings
Named after Po’Pay, the leader of the 1680 Pueblo Revolt against Spanish colonizers in present-day New Mexico, this dish is a tribute to an event that ensured the survival of the Pueblo people. Po’Pay’s given name was Popyn, which in Tewa means “ripe squash,” so for this recipe Ray uses the bluish gray Taos Pueblo Hubbard squash, native to New Mexico. It tends to be larger than other Hubbard varieties and has a harder shell, which protects it against the sometimes bitter cold of a New Mexico winter.
The bisque is garnished with amaranth leaves and popped seeds and squash blossoms. Amaranth leaves are sold at some farmers’ markets, well-stocked grocery stores, and Asian and Mexican markets. Look for the popped seeds (aka puffed seeds) at the same sources as well as natural foods stores and online. If you can’t find amaranth leaves, you can substitute microgreens, but don’t forgo the puffed amaranth — it really adds a wonderful toasty flavour as well as a very pleasing, delicate crunchy texture to this dish. If you can’t find puffed or popped amaranth online or at your local specialty market, you can easily make your own. And keep in mind that amaranth seeds are often sold as “whole grain amaranth.”
Fresh squash blossoms are seasonal and available from late spring through early fall. They can be found in some farmers’ markets, Mexican markets, or perhaps in your own garden or your neighbor’s. As Ray says about the ingredients in this dish, “Flowers to seeds to new plants symbolize the generations.”
Lastly, this recipe calls for Zuni salt, which Native American communities harvest from the Zuni Salt Lake. It’s not an easy ingredient to find. You can substitute it with high-quality flaky sea salt.
INGREDIENTS
One (3 lb) Taos Pueblo Hubbard squash or other winter squash like red kuri or kabocha
8 cups water
Zuni salt or high-quality flaky sea salt
For garnish and serving
3 to 4 tbsp puffed or popped amaranth seeds
16 small amaranth leaves or ½ cup microgreens
4 to 6 fresh squash blossoms, stamens and pistils removed
Amaranth and corn tortillas for serving (or rice or rajgira rotis)
METHOD
Rinse the outside of the squash well. Then cut off the stem end and cut the squash into quarters. Scoop out the seeds and stringy flesh from each quarter and set aside.
In a medium saucepan, combine the squash pieces and water and bring just to a boil over medium-high heat. Turn down the heat to a gentle simmer and poach the squash until it is soft when pierced with a fork, about 30 minutes for most varieties.
While the squash cooks, preheat the oven to 300°F. Rinse the squash seeds, discarding any strings, flesh, or other bits; then pat the seeds dry. (The seeds can be roasted in or out of the shell. The entire seed is edible.) Pile the seeds onto a sheet pan and sprinkle with a large pinch of Zuni salt or regular-size pinch of sea salt and toss to coat evenly. (The seeds are naturally oily so you don’t need to toss with additional oil.) Spread the seeds in a single layer. Roast, stirring the seeds halfway through, until they begin to pop and are lightly browned, about 15 minutes. Remove from the oven and set aside.
When the squash is ready, remove the pan from the heat and, using a slotted spoon or tongs, carefully transfer the pieces to a cutting board. Let the pieces cool until they can be handled. Then peel away and discard the skin from each piece and return the pieces to the poaching liquid in the pan. Add 2 tablespoons Zuni salt or 1 tablespoon sea salt and, using an immersion blender, puree the squash with the poaching liquid until smooth. (Alternatively, transfer the poaching liquid and squash to a food processor or in batches to a blender and puree until smooth, then return the puree to the pan.) Reheat the bisque over medium-low heat until hot, stirring occasionally to prevent scorching.
Ladle the bisque into bowls and garnish each serving with the roasted squash seeds, amaranth seeds and leaves, and squash blossoms, dividing them evenly. Serve immediately, accompanied with the tortillas, or rice or rajgira rotis.
Note: To make your own puffed or popped amaranth seeds, warm a dry saucepan over medium heat for 2 minutes. Add a tablespoon of amaranth seeds and cook until they puff, 1 to 2 minutes, then immediately transfer to a bowl. Repeat with another tablespoon of amaranth seeds. Leftovers can be enjoyed as a snack.
(Excerpted with permission from The Last Sweet Bite by Michael Shaikh, published by Crown; 2025)
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