The autumn flower that finds its way into your plate
Once offered to the gods, now simmered in curries, teas and khar, Shiuli is more than just a flower.
What’s in a name? Plenty, if you ask the Shiuli flower. Known as Shiuli phool in Bangla, Parijat in Hindi, and Xewali in Assamese, the night-blooming jasmine (Nyctanthes arbor-tristis) carries with it mythology, fragrance and even culinary surprises. Every autumn, as the air swells with festivity, read Durga Puja and chilly air, the ground beneath its trees turns into a soft carpet of white and orange blossoms.
In Hindu mythology, the Parijat tree was said to have emerged from the ocean during Samudra Manthan, before finding its way into Indra’s heavenly abode. Some stories say Krishna was later gifted the flower by Indra, who then brought it to Earth for his wives. Or as narrated in the Vayu Purana, Parijataka, a mortal princess, fell in love with the fiery Sun God Surya, and the tree rose from her ashes after she ignited herself for her unrequited love. Some others whisper that its bittersweet bloom was cursed never to bear fruit. What’s certain is that every autumn season, the Shiuli announces Durga Puja season with its fragrance and is even offered as a sacred flower to the goddess herself.
But the flower’s story doesn’t stop at the altar. In the kitchens of Assam, Bengal, Odisha and beyond, Shiuli steps off the prayer plate and into simmering pots and sizzling pans. Its slightly bitter taste results in dishes that are earthy, aromatic and tied deeply to memory. “I remember very clearly going for morning walks surrounded by the flowers’ fragrance… We used to leave a clean cloth under the trees the day before and would wake up to a big carpet of Xewali flowers that we later used in cooking,” recalls Gitika Saikia, a food curator from North East.
Here are some of the most loved dishes that celebrate the fleeting bloom:
Xewali Phulor Khar
A signature Assamese dish, khar is an alkaline staple at the heart of every Assamese household. Adding Shiuli flowers to this dish creates a distinctive, slightly bitter flavour. It is slow-cooked with mustard oil, garlic, chillies, and paanch phoron (five-spice mix). The result? A dish that is both deeply aromatic and flavorful. According to chef Sneha Saikia, “Khar holds a special place in Assamese households. It is the most traditional recipe. In fact, Assamese people are also called Khar Khuwa, or one who eats khar.” The dish is traditionally paired with rice and fried fish head.
Night Jasmine and Creamy Coconut Rice
Shiuli plays a softer role in this dish. The blossoms are sautéed gently with a dish of rice, then simmered in coconut milk with cardamom, raisins, and cashews. The result is a subtly sweet, creamy texture where bitterness of the flowers is mellowed into something delicate and aromatic. “This dish works best with fresh Sheuli flowers, but can also be made with dried flowers. Sheuli, when fresh, gives an umami flavour. It becomes bitter only when dried, but in Assam, we eat a lot of bitter foods, believing they purify blood and help fight infections,” shares Chef Sneha.
Shiuli Pakoras (Fritters)
Nothing better than a plate of hot fritters, and Shuili flowers are the perfect ingredient. Dipped in a spiced batter of dal or besan, the flowers are deep-fried into crisp pakoras. They’re crunchy on the outside, faintly bitter on the inside and pair perfectly with a hot cup of chai, especially on misty autumn mornings. While sharing the recipe, food content creator Shyamalima Tamuly (@shyamalimatamuly_) says: “It’s something not to be missed. Not just the flowers, but even the tender leaves of the tree are great for pakodas.”
Pavazhamalli Rasam
In Tamil Nadu, the flower is called pavazha malli, or pearl jasmine. Here, it is dried and used in rasam, a thin, spiced broth. The bitterness of the flowers adds depth, while jaggery, tamarind and spices bring balance. Seasoned with ghee and fried shiuli blossoms, this rasam soothes the stomach and the soul alike. According to ethnographic food blogger Deepa S. Reddy (@paticheri), the key lies in restraint and not adding too many ingredients: “The point is to highlight the taste of the flowers themselves. I left out anything additional that might overwhelm the essential and subtle flower bitters.” The dish can be paired with rice.
Shiuli Tea
The simplest way to enjoy Shiuli is to brew it into a calming tea. The dried flowers are boiled in water, releasing a gentle fragrance and a mild taste that is soothing rather than bitter. As Saikia suggests, “The dried flowers are useful to control diabetes. It also helps in blood purification, giving flawless skin. In terms of aroma, the flower has a sweet fragrance which calms the nerves, helps with anxiety and insomnia.”
Compiled by Jatan Kalra
