Frothy fusion, decadent drama and mortal magic: Themes that dominated the India Couture Week 2025 runway
The annual week-long fashion pilgrimage, the India Couture Week, has dropped its curtains, leaving behind a cloud of confetti and runway highlights to unpack
The last 8 evenings saw the fashion circuit's crème de la crème gather at New Delhi's Taj Palace, and on occasion at The Oberio and The Marriott, in attendance of the Hyundai India Couture Week, in association with Reliance Brands Limited, an FDCI initiative. Dripping in couture of collections past and present, guests poised-ly flooded the Durbar and Shah Jehan halls which in turn transformed into couture coded capsules. Across 14 shows, innumerable fresh silhouettes and clearly insurmountable inspiration, this is what truly floored the runway and attending jaws.
Frothy fusion
Roseroom by Isha Jajodia opened day 2 of Couture Week, presenting the delicate 'Whispers of Love to Myself'. French, frothy, fusion and most importantly, fun, the line was all about getting lost in yourself, but finding it in couture. Sheer corsets, layered tulle, lace, pearls and tassels celebrated femininity in all it's glory, making it an absolute visual treat.
The same energy, in a much more bridal (and adjacent) approach is what came with Jayanti Reddy's 'Reclaimed Opulence', showcased on day 6. Modern maharani energy encased the runway with peplum corsets and exquisite dori work being the highlight. The olive gold series which commenced the collection was an absolute standout.
Decadent drama
Nobody does old school drama like Suneet Varma and his twilight-bathed 'Sehr' showcased on day 2 was an expression of just that. The runway mimicked water, the ceiling threw down an abundance of vines and amongst the flora and fauna in between, theatrical silhouettes in shimmering moon-lit palettes maneuvered through. The headgears were a true standout as were the fastened bows and bauble-sized pearl details. ‘Sehr’ was an experience, and the aankh micholi, a moment in itself.
Falguni Shane Peacock took the lead on drama as they turned their runway into a royal courtyard for 'Raj Mahal Bijoux —The Palace of Jewels'. This is what the modern day princess would wear, architectural icons like the Laxmi Vilas Palace and Jaipur’s City Palace serving as the aesthetic inspiration for the silhouettes. The denim couture, the floor-length gajras, the trademark ostrich feather work and tonnes of glimmer wrapped up day 3 of Couture Week.
Mortal magic
Amit Aggarwal’s ‘Arcanum’, showcased on day 3 was hauntingly beautiful. Sculptural and cord work featured heavily as the silhouettes traced the journey from cocoon to bloom to fluidity, the reimagined Ikat sarees being an utter highlight. This was less a collection and more like interpretive art. Literally, an otherworldly vision, inspired by the complexities of our own mortality.
Speaking of (im)mortality, the Rohit Bal show on day 6, presented by his design team, was of course an homage, but also a thorough celebration of all that the late designer stood to represent. Romantic silhouettes, regal and strongly lined drapes and the romanticism in the air — ‘Kashgul’ was in many ways not just the highlight of the day, but of the week.
Nothing brings the room together like a potent hit of nostalgic regalia, an updated sense of which dominates the collections of most mainstream designers as they establish their sartorial voice, and then renew it season on season. This week of virtuosic couture stood to represent exactly that.
And that's a wrap!
