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5 retinol myths that dermatologists wish you’d stop believing: From skin thinning to making skin sun sensitive

Published on: Nov 22, 2025 07:09 PM IST

You thought you know retinol? Here are popular retinol myths that you shouldn't believe, says a dermatologist. 

If you're a beauty and skincare aficionado, you've heard about retinol. A form of vitamin A, it isa crucial skincare element that fights signs of ageing, improves skin tone, fights acne, and has a boot of other skin benefits. But do you know that just like the other vitamins, retinol too needs to be used in mindful concentration?

Debunking retinol myths: The right potion can do wonders(Adobe Stock)

While the benefits of retinol may be endless, if not used mindfully, the very same retinol could misbehave with your skin too! As long as you use it right, you don't have to worry about the popular retinol myths.

What is Retinol?

Retinol is a derivative of vitamin A that is used in a plenty of skincare products like creams, serums, masks to treat various skin issues, listed above.

Dr Gagan Raina, Cosmetologist and Aesthetic Medicine Specialist, tells HT ShopNow, “Retinol is one of the most scientifically validated molecules in dermatology. It boosts collagen production and speeds up skin renewal. However, retinol can work differently as your skin changes over time.”

Retinol myths busted

According to Dr Bindu Sthalekar, celebrity dermatologist, cosmetologist and trichologist, “retinol is one of the most misunderstood ingredients in skincare. It is either glorified as a miracle cure or feared as something that "thins the skin" or "causes peeling”.

Myth: Start using retinol as early to avoid signs of ageing

On the contrary, Dr Raina recommends on starting slow. “Going stronger with age isn’t the answer, using it smarter is", she says. “When used mindfully, retinol acts less like a cosmetic”, she claims. "Keep in mind to apply retinol on dry skin, buffering with moisturiser, and never skip sunscreen. “Retinol should remodel, not inflame,” she adds.

She further adds, “Any formulation of retinol based skincare products should match your skin type. Retinol based creams help soothe dry skin, serums work well for balanced skin, and gels keep oily skin clear.”

The table explains how and in what concentration is retinol beneficial for your skin:

AgeRight concentrationHow it improves the skin
20'sLow concentrations (0.1–0.3%, once or twice a week)Retinol acts as a preventive, maintaining texture and radiance
30's and 0'sModerate concentrations (0.5%, on alternate nights)Corrective repairing early lines and dullness with moderate strengths
Beyond 40'sHigh concentrations (0.5–0.75%, up to three times)it supports repair and elasticity with higher tolerance

Myth: Retinol thins your skin

Dr Sthalekar says retinol doesn’t thin your skin. In fact, it does the opposite. “Retinol stimulates collagen production, thickens the dermal layer, and smooths fine lines over time. The initial dryness or flakiness people experience is simply," she clarifies.

Myth: Retinol is unsafe for sensitive skin.

"It’s all about how you introduce it, starting slow (once or twice a week), using a pea-sized amount, and sandwiching it between layers of moisturiser can make it tolerable for most skin types”, Dr Sthalekar explains.

Myth: Retinol makes your skin more sun-sensitive

“In reality, it temporarily thins the top dead-cell layer, making sunscreen essential, but this sensitivity subsides with consistent use and protection,” Dr Sthalekar asserts.

Myth: Don't use other actives with retinol

This is wrong. Dr Sthalekar says, “The key is to balance, pair it with niacinamide, peptides, or ceramides. In fact, this pairing actually enhances retinol benefits by soothing and supporting the skin barrier. "When used correctly, retinol is less about chasing perfection and more about consistency, it’s the long-term investment your skin will thank you for.

Note to readers: This article is for informational purposes only and not a substitute for professional medical advice. Always seek the advice of your doctor with any questions about a medical condition.

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