Dermatologist shares 5 common retinol mistakes that may damage your skin health: ‘Starting so high…’
If retinol is the hero ingredient in your routine, check out these common mistakes which could undermine the efficiency.
Retinol has become the new favourite word in the skincare world. With anti-ageing being one of the key priorities for skincare, retinol is regarded as the poster child for improving skin texture that often takes a hit as one ages. But it is a natural process because ageing makes the skin less supple due to lowered collagen production.
But should you jump on the bandwagon? Every skin ingredient has its own set of drawbacks, as nothing is truly unconditional. So the right effectiveness, even for the much-coveted ‘skincare hero’, depends on person to person. So it is high time you reconsider and stop putting any skincare ingredient on a pedestal, and you factor in the limitations as well.
HT Lifestyle spoke to Dr Rupika Singh, dermatologist and founder of Akiya Aesthetics, who revealed that while retinol is useful, the problem occurs because of incorrect usage.
She explained the various utilities of retinol, “Retinol enables collagen synthesis, and reduces the appearance of fine lines. It also possesses skin texture-improving properties.” According to her, this very skincare hero can turn into a ‘menace’ if you don't adhere to correct usage, you will be subjected to skin redness, peeling and acne.
The dermatologist described the 5 common mistakes you may be making:
1. Shifting to too strong potency quickly
The first mistake people make, as Dr Singh highlighted, is reaching for a high-potency formula right from the start, assuming that stronger automatically means better.
What are the pitfalls of a high-strength serum? Dr Singh warned, “Starting so high so early can overwhelm the skin’s barrier and lead to inflammation, stinging feeling, and even peeling of skin.”
Why does this happen then? The dermatologist explained that retinol speeds up cell turnover, but the skin barrier needs time to adjust. So in other words, the irritation actually is counterproductive as it interferes with the skin's natural repair process.
The solution is that you need to begin gradually. Dr Singh highly recommended, “Begin with a low-strength retinol (0.1–0.3%) and use it just 2 nights a week, gradually increasing frequency as your skin builds tolerance.”
2. Daily usage of retinol at night from day one
The second mistake is applying retinol every night right away from the first day. Beginners need to slow down and need to be cautious. Dr Singh insisted that in the context of retinol, more is not better. Issues like chronic redness, sensitivity and dryness show up.
As if this misconception is not enough, the dermatologist pointed to another false belief that if the skin is irritated after using retinol, many may confuse it with normal purging. Believing they are on the right path, they may amp up on the usage, further escalating the damage.
Dr Singh instead recommended a concept called ‘skin cycling.’ She explained it, “Follow the skin cycling approach, retinol on alternate nights or twice weekly initially, paired with barrier-repair nights in between.”
3. Application on damp skin
The third mistake is application-related as opposed to the first two, which were frequency-oriented. The dermatologist warned against retinol immediately after washing the face, flagging it as a ‘powerful mistake.’ “Damp skin absorbs products more deeply, which increases retinol penetration and, in turn, irritation,” she revealed.
What are the consequences? Dr Singh named: burning sensations, unexpected peeling, or rashes around sensitive areas like the eyes, nose and mouth.
Is there any time gap that you need to follow? The dermatologist confirmed that there is. She emphasised that retinol should always be applied to completely dry skin and advised waiting for a minimum 15-20 minutes after washing the face before application.
4. Not applying moisturiser or opting for an incorrect one
The fourth mistake is to skip moisturiser or select the wrong one. As per the dermatologist, you should not apply retinol directly to bare skin. The previous step should be applying moisturiser. Even retinol works better this way.
What are the side effects? She added, “Without proper hydration, your skin becomes vulnerable, leading to irritation, flaking, and micro-tears in the barrier.”
The way forward is a technique called the ‘sandwich method.’ Dr Singh advised, “Use the sandwich method, apply a light moisturiser first, then retinol, and seal with another layer of moisturiser. Choose barrier-supporting ingredients like ceramides, glycerin, and niacinamide.”
5. Skipping sunscreen in the morning
Sunscreen is a non-negotiable step in your skincare routine, and for all the valid reasons, it also enhances the efficiency of other products. How? Dr Singh explained, “Retinol makes your skin more sensitive to UV damage. Skipping sunscreen not only worsens irritation but also increases the risk of pigmentation, premature ageing, and barrier damage.”
What is the solution for this common mistake? Dr Singh highly suggested using a broad-spectrum sunscreen (SPF 30 or higher) every morning. You may use it indoors as well, especially if you are in a well-lit room.
Note to readers: This article is for informational purposes only and not a substitute for professional medical advice. Always seek the advice of your doctor with any questions about a medical condition.
