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Born from necessity: The story behind Payal Khandwala’s label
Fashion designer Payal Khandwala shares how the search for a wardrobe that truly reflected her sensibilities became the catalyst for her eponymous label
What begins as a deeply personal need can, at times, rise into a revolution in art. Launched in 2012, Payal Khandwala’s consciously crafted label was born not from a passing trend but from a gap she recognised in her own wardrobe and in the lives of many modern women. “I dressed a certain way - clothes that were less about fashion, anchored in personal style: easy separates, chic yet free-spirited, sustainable, rooted in craft but not overtly so, minimal and comfortable. It was a tall order. But no one was making such clothes, so I had no choice but to make them myself,” she says.
Rejecting the prevailing maximalist Indian aesthetic, Payal set out to build a wardrobe defined by timelessness, functionality and artistic integrity. “I used to think: how do I offer options that are timeless? How do I make women’s lives easier? How do I maximise silhouettes and infuse clothes with a personality that enhances the wearer’s own? Can they sit, drive, pack and travel in these garments with ease? Can they relax in my clothes so they can be the best version of themselves? I want them to forget the clothes once they step into them and simply carry how the clothes make them feel.”
Payal's customers echo these values. “They want the freedom to express themselves, but not at the cost of comfort. They’re not fashion victims, they appreciate thoughtful design and sophistication. They want clothes made with care, relevant to their busy lives, practical yet stylish, understated yet distinct,” she says.
Much of what sets her work apart stems from her first love: art. Payal was a painter for over a decade before turning to design. “I had studied both disciplines, so it was a gentle shift. My lens remained the same. The concerns I had while painting: proportion, colour theory, texture, negative space, form, line simply moved to a new canvas. Now the human body became my canvas. The clothes could be sculptural, but form always followed function. Clothes are a product, not a painting, yet the foundations of my artworks continue to influence the process of making clothes.”
The designer's approach to sustainability is inherent to her design choices rather than driven by trends. Working primarily with handwoven silk, brocade and cotton, her brand is distinguished by its bold colour palette and architectural silhouettes. “We started working with artisans in West Bengal and Bhagalpur and gradually included Varanasi. We have dedicated looms in these regions and have been working with the same artisans for years,” she says. Supporting the financial sustainability of these craftsmen has been central to her practice.
Her 120-year-old home also mirrors her design ethos. Living within a structure layered with history offers her a constant dialogue between past and present. “This push and pull between the old and the new is my playground. I believe we must draw from our rich histories to create a vocabulary for the future but it must offer something new. It cannot simply repackage heritage; it must express a renewed grammar. Whether it’s architecture, clothes or art, I am compelled to find that fine balance. I try to preserve the craft of the old and infuse it with a contemporary vision,” she says.
Payal lives on the top floor of her Colaba building, which she renovated herself. Her first task was restoring its structural integrity and making it habitable. “The teak ceiling had been coated with white paint; it took three months to strip it back and reveal the wood. I kept the space subtle and understated. It reflects contemporary minimalism,” she says.
Soon, Payal hopes to return to painting, a creative pursuit that continues to shape her world outside fashion.
Credits
Photographer: Sarang Gupta
Production: Akshay Kaushal
