From Prada to Kartik Research: India set the runway mood
If recent fashion weeks are anything to go by, couture is locked in on India. From mukaish coats to the controversial Kohlapuri sandals, here’s a round-up
The runways at the Milan and Paris Fashion Weeks made one thing very clear: fashion’s gaze is turned to India.
Even as questions around appropriation arose, India was threaded firmly into the core of the season, from textiles and textures, right down to the models and set design.
Okay, so this is not new
Fashion has always turned to India for ideas. It is a long history dressed up as inspiration. For instance, Jean Paul Gaultier showed turbans, bindis, and sherwani jackets in his 2007 couture line. John Galliano pulled heavily from Mughal silhouettes during his Dior years. Karl Lagerfeld sent Chanel’s Métiers d’Art to Mumbai back in 2012. The staging was theatrical. The embroidery was Indian. The credits were barely there.
Dries Van Noten once said India was his textile dreamland. He was not alone. Fast fashion jumped in too. High street brands have churned out block prints, mirror work, paisley shawls, and even yoga pants with temple motifs. Little to no credit was given.
Dior’s shiny coat came at a cost
Dior served up Paris Fashion Week’s most talked-about pieces: a shimmering, mukaish-embroidered long coat. This art form dates back to third-century Lucknow and involves flattened metal wires stitched into fabric.
Once worn by royalty, the Dior version (valued at close to 1.72 lakh) took twelve artisans and over thirty days to finish. However, the brand did not credit the technique or the artisans involved in its show notes, drawing flak from Indian designers and craft activists.
Prada’s sandals were just not sandals
Prada’s menswear show in Milan SS26 made waves for all the wrong reasons. Among the slick tailoring and rich fabrics was a humble-looking sandal. Open-toe, flat sole, a leather toe-loop. Yes, we are talking about Kolhapuris.
These are not just any shoes. They are traditional hand-made sandals crafted in Maharashtra for generations. They have been granted geographical indication status, which means their design is protected, legally linked to their region and community.
Prada described them as “leather flat sandals.” That was it. No reference to Kolhapur. No mention of India. Nothing.
The backlash was swift. The Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce raised formal concerns. Indian designers called it out. Eventually, Prada issued a letter acknowledging the sandals were inspired by India and said they were open to future dialogue with Indian artisans.
India walked into Paris with its own story
While global brands were fumbling with credits, Kartik Research arrived in Paris and flipped the script. The Delhi-based label presented a travelogue-like collection, accompanied by a visual essay titled, How to Make It in India.
The brand also finally forayed into womenswear amid serious buzz. From textiles to silhouettes, each piece told a story of Indian craftsmanship, ranging from handlooms to hand-weaving and dyeing. Surfaces also told a story of heritage, with Jaipur rugs covering every inch of the set.
Louis Vuitton named names
Pharrell Williams’s second menswear show for Louis Vuitton was another moment where Indian craft played a leading role. The runway was staged on Paris’s oldest bridge, which was transformed into a snakes and ladders board. The set was designed by Indian architect Bijoy Jain and built using Indian marble, stone, and wood.
The soundtrack was created in collaboration with A R Rahman. Palm trees, crystal-studded trunks, elephant motifs, and even a miniature autorickshaw bag nodded to Indian and South Asian culture.
This was not an abstract reference. Louis Vuitton clearly credited the designers, artists, and inspiration behind the show.
Models from India owned the runway
India’s fashion week footprint did not end at fabric or set designs — models from India took centre stage at some of the biggest showcases.
Walking for Hermès was Nakul Bhardwaj, who made headlines last year as the first Indian on the Versace runway. Meanwhile, Jainil Mehta made waves at Louis Vuitton, Saurang Sharma (pictured left) brought his quiet power to Issey Miyake and Shubham Vaidkar appeared in Giorgio Armani’s presentation.
