Prada turns Kolhapuri sandals controversy into collaboration, plans India-made luxury footwear for ₹84,000 each

Prada is launching a limited-edition sandal line inspired by Kolhapuri chappals, following a partnership with LIDCOM and LIDKAR to support Indian artisans.

Italian luxury brand Prada is preparing to introduce a limited-edition line of sandals inspired by India’s iconic Kolhapuri chappals, marking a turnaround from the cultural appropriation criticism it faced earlier this year. The initiative follows a formal agreement the company signed on Wednesday with Maharashtra’s LIDCOM and Karnataka’s LIDKAR, two government-backed bodies that promote leather artisanship.

The collection of Kolhapuri sandals will feature 2,000 pairs, debuting in February 2026, and includes a training program for artisans to enhance their skills.(REUTERS)

According to a joint statement cited by PTI, the MoU was signed at the Consulate General of Italy in Mumbai and will involve Indian artisans producing the sandals using traditional methods from Maharashtra and Karnataka. The collaboration aims to merge heritage craftsmanship with Prada’s high-end design and materials.

Lorenzo Bertelli, Prada’s chief of marketing and head of corporate social responsibility, told Reuters that the brand intends to produce 2,000 pairs for the first release, each expected to retail at around 800 euros (roughly 930 dollars), which comes up to around ₹84,000. The collection will debut worldwide in February 2026 across 40 stores and Prada’s online platform. Bertelli added that the partnership will include a three-year training programme to help artisans upgrade skills both in India and at Prada’s Academy in Italy.

The move comes after Prada unveiled toe-ring sandals in its Spring/Summer 2026 preview, which bore close resemblance to traditional Kolhapuris, footwear that carries a Geographical Indication (GI) tag. The backlash led to demands from artisan groups and the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce for proper attribution, said several agency reports. Bollywood actors, including Kareena Kapoor, also publicly criticised the design for neglecting its Indian origins.

Union Commerce Minister Piyush Goyal, reacting to the new partnership, said he was pleased that the issue had evolved into a constructive collaboration. Goyal, who grew up in Mumbai, told PTI that Kolhapuri chappals have the potential to become a billion-dollar export category, adding that once a person starts wearing them, “they rarely switch to anything else.” He added that the traditional footwear from Maharashtra could emerge as a global brand in its own right.

"I had always envisaged Kolhapuri chappals to be able to do an export of USD 1 billion from India. And that's the potential that I would like both sides to collaborate and work towards," he said, as quoted by PTI.

The partnership with LIDCOM and LIDKAR aimed not just to manufacture footwear but also to preserve traditional skills passed down through marginalized artisan communities, said a report by Reuters. Prerna Deshbhratar, Managing Director of LIDCOM, noted that Prada’s endorsement could significantly boost demand and restore pride in the craft.

Despite its expanding interest in the Indian market, Prada told Reuters that it does not plan to open new fashion retail stores in India next year, though it is considering future expansion within a three-to-five-year horizon. India’s luxury segment is valued at 7 billion dollars in 2024 and is projected to quadruple by 2030, according to Deloitte data referenced by Reuters.

(With inputs from Reuters and PTI)