How to use salicylic acid in a minimal skincare routine: Expert explains the right way to do it

Updated on: Dec 12, 2025 10:33 AM IST

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If you have acne, salicylic acid has to be your best bet. But do you know the right way of using it? Here is what an expert says about it.

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Anyone with acne issues may have been suggested products with salicylic acid, a powerhouse for dull or breakout-prone skin. For those who aren’t familiar, salicylic acid works by penetrating deep into the pores to dissolve excess oil and sweep away dead skin cells. However, like any active ingredient, it needs to be used thoughtfully and with proper care.

The right way to use salicylic acid on your face(Adobe Stock)

Aesthetic dermatologist Dr Madhuri Agarwal, founder and medical director, Yavana Skin and Hair Clinic, tells Health Shots, “The increasing popularity of salicylic acid is due to its efficacy and relatively gentle profile compared to more aggressive treatments." She says that, unlike physical scrubs that primarily act on the skin’s surface, salicylic acid is oil-soluble and penetrates deep to target congested pores, making it very effective for managing oily skin, blackheads and acne-prone skin.

She also emphasises adding a cleanser, salicylic acid serum/gel and moisturiser to your daily skincare routine. “Salicylic acid should be applied after cleansing and on completely dry skin. Always perform a patch test on the jawline to see whether the product is suitable for you”, insists Dr Agarwal.

How much salicylic acid does your skin need?

It is recommended for new users to start with a 2% concentration, once to twice, weekly at night, allowing time for skin to get used to it, suggests the expert.If no irritation occurs after two weeks, the frequency can be increased to alternate nights. Dr Agarwal also focuses on applying a moisturiser, preferably a gel-based moisturiser, in case the skin is oily.

How your morning routine should look like

“The morning routine should remain minimal too, comprising a cleanser, moisturiser, and sunscreen”, she says. She mentions that most individuals begin to see cleaner pores and less oiliness after two to three weeks of regular use. Dr Agarwal says, “Improvement in mild acne can usually take six to eight weeks. Staying consistent will yield more results.” She also emphasises consulting a dermatologist to understand the proper usage of salicylic acid.

Layering your skin for that perfect glow

It is important to layer active ingredients carefully to avoid irritation with salicylic acid. “Do not combine salicylic acid with retinoids or other exfoliating agents such as AHAs in the same night routine application”, she cautions.

“Once you are comfortable with the use of actives, you can alternate salicylic acid and retinol on separate nights”, says Dr Agarwal. She further mentions that salicylic acid can be safely combined with niacinamide or ceramides as they support skin barrier function and help reduce potential irritation.

Mistakes to avoid with salicylic acid

One of the most common issues that the expert has noticed is people getting impatient and overdoing salicylic acid. “As they hear it works, they would start using it at times twice a day from the start, which is not recommended. Overusing of salicylic acid without a patch test can give you red, peeling and irritated skin,” she warns.

Dr Agarwal further mentions that people should never skip applying sunscreen, no matter what. “Salicylic acid increases your skin's sensitivity to the sun, and with Indian skin, that can quickly lead to pigmentation, so applying sunscreen becomes a priority”.

Another frequent mistake that she sees is skipping moisturiser to avoid your skin being oily. "That is a myth! When you strip your skin without replacing moisture, it actually produces more oil as a response. Your skin gets stressed and tries to compensate.

Seasonal changes and salicylic acid

It is vital to adjust the skincare routine according to seasonal changes to avoid unpleasant side effects. During humid weather, there is increased oil production, and this can require more frequent application of salicylic acid. “During dry weather, I suggest decreasing the use of salicylic acid to once or two times a week and increasing the frequency of moisturisers. It is important to continually check and change the skin products according to the needs of your skin," explains Dr Agarwal.

She says if you experience unusual signs such as skin tightness or discomfort, reduce the application frequency and increase your use of moisturiser. It is important to note that when a carefully selected salicylic acid product is incorporated into a simple, minimalistic regimen, it will usually be more effective than multiple products applied inconsistently.

Lastly, she recommends that salicylic acid products be stored in a cool, dry environment and away from direct sunlight and heat.