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Karnataka involvement in Prada deal invites Maharashtra artisans’ ire
As part of the deal, Prada will produce 2,000 pairs in the first lot, with each pair expected to retail at around €800 ( ₹84,000)
Mumbai : Days after a Memorandum of Understanding (MoU) was inked between Italian luxury fashion brand Prada and two government-backed associations from Maharashtra and Karnataka to introduce a limited-edition line of sandals inspired by the iconic Kolhapuri Chappal, artists from Maharashtra’s southwestern district have objected to their counterparts from the neighbouring state reaping benefits from the collaboration.
Prada, on Thursday, sealed an agreement with Maharashtra’s LIDCOM (Sant Rohidas Leather Industries and Charmakar Development Corporation Ltd) and Karnataka’s LIDKAR (Dr Babu Jagjivan Ram Leather Industries Development Corporation Ltd), with the Italian brand planning to make 2,000 pairs of sandals inspired by Kolhapuri Chappals in the two states.
The deal comes months after Prada courted controversy over cultural appropriation, when models of the renowned fashion house were seen wearing footwear that resembled Kolhapuris during a show in Milan.
Kolhapuri Chappals received the Geographical Indication (GI) tag in 2019, highlighting their authenticity and cultural significance. Both LIDKAR and LIDCOM are registered owners of the GI tag for the footwear.
Ashok Gaikwad, chairman of Kolhapuri Chappal Cluster Pvt. Ltd said: “We are happy that LIDCOM’s deal with the Italian fashion house will benefit Kolhapuri craftspeople. But why should this extend to artisans in Karnataka? We understand that they benefit from the GI tag, but Kolhapuri Chappal is a local art and craftspeople from another area should not claim it just because they replicate it due to geographical proximity with Kolhapur.”
Gaikwad added that his association will consult with other local players, following which they will together seek opinion from legal experts regarding the sharing of GI tag with Karnataka soon.
Bhupal Shete, director of Kolhapur Chappal Industrial Cluster, and a member of Kolhapur Footwear Association, said that artisans in Kolhapur are “upset” that they have to share their identity and brand with the neighbouring state. “The GI-tag co-ownership is a thing of the past,” he said. “We also want to know how many craftsmen from Kolhapur will get work subsequent to the deal with Prada.”
An official from the social justice department, under which LIDCOM falls, said that craftspeople from Kolhapur “should focus on benefits and opportunities the Prada deal will bring them”.
“Any issue related to Karnataka is a matter of the past; we should focus on the future so that Kolhapur gets more business internationally,” the official said on condition of anonymity.
As part of the deal, Prada will produce 2,000 pairs in the first lot, with each pair expected to retail at around €800 ( ₹84,000). The sandal will debut worldwide in February 2026 across 40 stores and Prada’s online platform.
